GA - Spirits of Japan Portfolio Book
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THE ART OF JAPANESE DISTILLING
THE SPIRITS OF ASIA — KNOW YOUR ORIGIN
Japanese Whisky Born in 1870, but remained in infancy until Yamazaki began commercial production in 1924. This style closely mirrors Scotch whisky production, but does not exist under the same strict regulatory oversight.. There are no official regulations regarding this category, although regulations are currently being evaluated for adoption in 2024.
Soju Pronounced SO - JOO
Baijiu Pronounced BI - GIO Baijiu is from China and characterized by solid-state fermentation and distillation using a grain culture called qū (a dried fermentation starter grown on a solid medium), which allows for simultaneous saccharification and fermentation. Distilled from grain, produced in batches and blended down to 35-60% ABV. Baijiu is categorized by bouquet and often appeals to drinkers of sour beer or funky rum. Soju, Shochu, Baijiu Comparison These Korean, Mandarin, and Japanese spirits all trace back to the same root word, all translate to “burned liquor”, and are the result of a single distillation of varied starch fermentations. Soju was a blanket term used to describe all beverages distilled from grain but has come to be more clearly defined over time. We make an effort to distinguish these spirits here because they are often confused for each other. You may have to further these distinctions in the field.
This category from Korea is a clear, colorless distilled alcoholic beverage. Traditionally made from the grains rice, wheat, or barley. Modern producers often replace rice with other starches, such as potato and sweet potato. Distilled to very high strength and diluted, sometimes sweetened or flavored, Soju is similar to vodka.
Sake Pronounced SAH - KEH
Shochu Pronounced SHOW - CHU “show me how to chew your food”
This category from Japan is brewed using rice, water and koji. The alcohol content is typically about 10-20% ABV. Consumed either hot or cold, and is usually filtered although unfiltered sake does exist.
Shochu is Japan’s national spirit of choice. It is typically single distilled from rice, barley, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, or kokuto sugar and bottled after dilution to 20-35% ABV.
Awamori Pronounced AH - WAH - MORE - E
Awamori is a predecessor to shochu, but now a recognized subset of Honkaku shochu. It is a single ferment shochu made from indica rice and fermented with black koji; native to Okinawa by way of Thailand.
THE SPIRITS OF JAPAN — KNOW YOUR DISTILLERY
Fuji
Takamine
DISTILLERY AT THE BASE OF MT FUJI
FUJI Mt Fuji Distillery | Chuba (Tokai), Shizuoka Prefecture The Fuji Gotemba distillery was founded at the height of the Japanese whisky industry in the early 1970s. A multinational corporate collaboration drew up plans to open the distillery, and production began in 1973. The collaboration consisted of Seagram’s from Canada, Chivas Brothers from Scotland, Four Roses distillery from the United States and the Kirin Brewery Company from Japan (who distributed Four Roses products in Japan). The syndicate selected the site as they felt that it had a climate most similar to Scotland’s. The town of Gotemba is over 2000 feet (610 metres) above sea level and is much cooler and less humid (especially in the summers) than other areas of Japan. The water takes 50 years from snow melt on Mt. Fuji to be filtered and used in our whiskies (malt and grain), making us the gift from Mt. Fuji The distillery was originally called the Gotemba Distillery and changed its name to Fuji Gotemba when it came under the sole ownership of Kirin in 2002. Bottling and cooperage on site Fuji Gotemba distillery is located in the town of Gotemba, which lies at the foot of Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji. It currently holds the record as the world’s largest whisky distillery, with a capacity of an impressive 12 million litres a year. It produces both single malt and grain whiskies from imported barley and grain from Scotland and Ireland. There are separate still rooms for the single malt and grain whisky production and Fuji Gotemba is one of the few distilleries in Japan to have its own bottling plant and cooperage.
“This very rare bottle of Japanese whisky masters the single grain experience. Kirin’s Fuji Gotemba distillery is all about precision at every step. “
Fun Fact: Fuji has won WWA
“World Best Whiskey” four times in five years.
Fuji Single Grain Japanese Whiskey 700mL | 46% ABV | MSRP $94.99 Recommended sipped from a white wine glass to enjoy all the flavors and delicate aromas. A blend of three different types of grain whiskies:
• Bourbon heavy style using pot stills and column stills. • Canadian style, using a kettle still in a batch process, creating a rich profile. • Scotch style, using five different column stills with continuous distillation for a lighter style.
MT FUJI – THE SYMBOL OF JAPAN
Fuji Blended Whisky 700mL | 46% ABV | MSRP $59.99
A Japanese and Scotch whisky blend, Including whisky up to 20 years old. Very flavorful, multi-layered, complex and balanced —a blend of various types of whiskies: both malt and grain, including three different types of grain produced at Mt Fuji Distillery.
BOUNTIFUL RICE HARVEST
TAKAMINE Shinozaki Distillery | Asakura, Fukuoka Prefecture Jokichi Takamine, a Japanese scientist at the turn of the 20th century, managed to create a whisky without malt by using the already centuries-old method of saccharifying grain with koji. While this innovation didn’t make it outside of his scientific work, Shinozaki Distillery is using this technique now in production of Takamine Whiskey. Takamine Koji Whiskey is made with the Takamine Process, using ancient Japanese koji mold to convert starches to fermentable sugars in a process similar to malting barley. Unlike malt whiskey where sugars are extracted in a warm water mash before yeast is introduced to start the fermentation, both the koji and yeast are active at the same time in a multiple parallel fermentation.
What is koji? Koji (aspergillus oryzae) is a mold that grows on grains, breaking the starches into sugars which yeast can then convert into alcohol through fermentation. Koji has been used in Japan for more than 1,200 years to make sake as well as soy sauce, miso, shochu, and other familiar umami-laden Japanese specialties. In fact, koji is the national mold of Japan.
The First Japanese Whiskey Distillery Made... Bourbon? click to find out the answer
Takamine Koji Barley Whiskey 8 Year 750mL | 40% ABV | MSRP $99.99
Takamine Koji Whiskey is made with the patented Takamine Process, which uses koji to convert starches to sugars in a process similar to malting barley. This 100% barley ferment is then double distilled and aged in 90% virgin oak and 10% ex-Bourbon casks to give the spirit its natural golden color and deep, lush flavors. Gold Medal SF Wine & Spirits Competition 2021
THE MAGIC OF KOJI
Takamine Flavor Profile
ABUNDANT RAINFALL SUSTAINS JAPAN’S PURE MOUNTAIN STREAMS
Japan’s koji spirits, Honkaku Shochu and Ryukyu Awamori predate Japanese whisky making by at least 400 years. These intensely artisanal spirits made by master craftsmen reflect the true spirit of Japan. The origins of these spirits are murky at best, but distilled spirits were almost certainly being made in Okinawa by 1477 and on the Japanese island of Kyushu by 1559. What is unique to these spirits traditions is their use of koji fermentation and single pot distillation. Since most other spirits traditions have lower alcohol ferments, they are almost always double or even triple distilled to achieve a high alcohol level. Ryukyu Awamori and Honkaku Shochu virtually always use a single pot distillation to reach 35 to 45% alcohol. Due to the single distillation, these spirits are full of lush flavors and aromas that would be lost in a second pass through the still. Nothing can be added to shochu or awamori after distillation other than water and time. These resolutely traditional drinks are still made as they were hundreds of years ago, though, of course, the equipment has been improved over time.
Fun Fact: To separate shochu and whisky in Japan, the government has put a law in place stating the shochu can’t be released if it’s beyond a certain level of darkness. This greatly hinders the barrel-aged category, as producers may have to then filter out the color, and as a result, much of the flavor. The Difference between Shochu and Sake? It’s simple! Sake is a brewed alcohol while Shochu is a distilled spirit, which also leads to the difference in alcohol content. Usually Sake is around 15% because most of the mold stops alcohol conversion and the alcohol level does not go any higher, while Shochu can be bottled at 20%-35%. Both can be made from rice, but Shochu can also be made from many base starches including barley, sweet potato, buckwheat and kokuto sugar.
Shochu Flavor Wheel
NINE PLANNED HONKAKU RESERVED STYLES
CREATING BEAUTIFUL SHOCHU
Mugi Hokka Barley Shochu 750mL | 25% ABV | MSRP $34.99 This 100% barley shochu is made using the
Mahoko Sweet Potato & Rice Shochu 750mL | 35% ABV | MSRP $64.99 Sweet potato shochu handmade using white rice koji in the first fermentation with steamed kogane sengan sweet potatoes added to the second fermentation. Distilled once in an atmospheric pot still, bringiing out rich aromas and allowing for optimal aging. Mahoko is aged for more than 16 years, with time in both ceramic pots and enamel tanks, allowing for oxidation creating a rich, umami-laden drink. Colorful Sweet Potato & Rice Shochu 750mL | 30% ABV | MSRP $54.99 Sweet potato shochu made by blending the raw distillate from two different batches. One batch is 2016 black koji rice and Miyazaki Beni sweet potatoes grown in Miyazaki Prefecture. The other batch is 2019 white koji rice and Tama Akane sweet potatoes grown in Kagoshima Prefecture. This collaboration between two master brewer-distillers is uncommon in the shochu world; blending in general is not done by most distilleries. As the name implies, this shochu is colorful on the nose and palate. Crio Frozen Moon Sweet Potato & Rice Shochu 750mL | 25% ABV | MSRP $99.99 Sweet potato shochu with white koji rice starter fermentation. Hand-harvested Yachiyoden Estate grown kogane sengan sweet potatoes are frozen after harvest to crystalize the tubers, denaturing the cell walls and extracting unique aromas and flavors. The potatoes are steamed and added to the main fermentation. Aging is minimal as this shochu is bright and ready to drink. Tsurushi Floating Moon Sweet Potato & Rice Shochu 750mL | 30% ABV | MSRP $99.99 Sweet potato shochu with white koji rice starter fermentation. Hand-harvested Yachiyoden Estate grown purple sweet potatoes are hung in the rafters of the distillery to allow the sweetness to intensify This uncommon practice extracts a unique aroma and flavors. The potatoes are steamed and added to the main fermentation. Aging is minimal as this shochu is bright and ready to drink.
softest strike water in Kagoshima Prefecture. First fermentation is white barley koji with steamed heirloom 2-row Schooner barley; 8% roasted barley is added in the main fermentation. Distillate is aged a minimum of 5 years before dilution and bottling. The rich, roasted coffee and dark chocolate notes come through beautifully. Masako Barley Shochu 750mL | 35% ABV | MSRP $46.99 This 100% barley shochu is handmade using white koji, distilled once in an atmospheric pot still, bringing out rich aromas and allowing for optimal aging. Masako is aged for more than 11 years with time in both ceramic pots and in enamel tanks. Ceramic aging allows some oxidation, creating a rich, umami-laden drink that shines on the rocks or This 100% rice shochu is handmade using white koji, distilled once in an atmospheric pot still, bringing out rich aromas and allowing for optimal aging. Motoko is aged for more than 9 years, with time in both ceramic pots and in enamel tanks. Ceramic aging allows some oxidation, creating a rich, umami-laden drink that shines on the rocks or diluted with hot water. Selephant Kokuto Sugar & Rice Shochu 750mL | 30% ABV | MSRP $59.99 Light, clean kokuto sugar shochu fermented in ceramic pots. First fermentation is white koji rice with kokuto sugar added to the main fermentation. Distilled once in a pot still before maturing for a minimum of 1 year in an enamel-lined stainless tank.. Kana Kokuto Sugar & Rice Shochu 750mL | 30% ABV | MSRP $67.99 Kokuto sugar shochu fermented in ceramic pots. First fermentation is white koji rice with kokuto sugar added to the main fermentation. Distilled once in a pot still before spending at least 1 year in oak casks. diluted with hot water. Motoko Rice Shochu 750mL | 35% ABV | MSRP $48.99
THE NEW PROPOSED JAPANESE WHISKY STANDARDS
April 1, 2021, the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association (JSLMA) has implemented new labeling standards for its association members (note: not all producers of Japanese whisky are association members and this is a voluntary association).
To label a product as Japanese whisky, the following requirements must be met:
• Distillers must always use malted grains but may also include other cereal grains.
• Water used to make whisky must be extracted in Japan.
• Saccharification (conversion of starches into sugars, or mashing), fermentation and distillation must take place at a Japanese distillery.
• Whisky must be matured in wooden casks stored in Japan for at least three years.
• Bottling must take place only in Japan, with a minimum strength of 40% abv.
• Plain caramel coloring may be used.
• Whiskies that don’t meet the above requirements (by March 31, 2024) may not use the names of geographical locations in Japan, the Japanese flag, or the names of people that evoke the country in their labeling. *** The proposed rules don’t come with any penalties and, of course, they only apply to brands that are part of the JSLMA. Spirits that don’t meet all the requirements can still be labelled as whisky, but not Japanese whisky.
JAPANESE WHISKY LAWS IN THE NEWS
THIRSTY FOR MORE INFORMATION?
Podcasts Japan Distilled Podcast https://japandistilled.com/ weekly educational podcast covering all Japanese spirits from Stephen Lyman and Christopher Pellegrini Sake on Air Podcast https://www.sakeonair.com/ bi-weekly exploration of shochu and sake Trade Associations https://japansake.or.jp/sake/en/ JSS – Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association https://www.honkakushochu-awamori.jp/english/ Honkaku Shochu education from Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association https://www.jetro.go.jp/en/ Japan External Trade Organization Books Ashcraft, Brian. Japanese Whisky: The Ultimate Guide to the World’s Most Desirable Spirit with Tasting Notes from Japan’s Leading Whisky Blogger. Tuttle Publishing, 2018. Broom, Dave. T he Way of Whisky: A Journey Around Japanese Whisky . Mitchell Beazley, 2017. Bunting, Chris. Drinking Japan: A Guide to Japan’s Best Alcoholic Beverages and Drinking Establishments. Tuttle Publishing, 2011. Lyman, Stephen and Bunting, Chris. The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks. Tuttle Publishing, 2019. Momose, Julia and Janzen, Emma. The Way of the Cocktail: Japanese Traditions, Techniques and Recipes. Clarkson Potter, 2021. Pellegrini, Christopher. The Shochu Handbook: An Introduction to Japan’s Indigenous Distilled Drink. Telemachus Press, 2014. Urushido, Masahiro and Anstendig, Michael. The Japanese Art of the Cocktail. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2021. Uyeda, Kazuo. Cocktail Techniques. Mud Puddle Books, 2021. Van Eycken, Stefan and Meehan, Jim. Whisky Rising: The Definitive Guide to the Finest Whiskies and Distillers of Japan. Cider Mill Press, 2017.
Social media @honkakuspirits @shochu_danji (Stephen Lyman) @christopherpellegrini @japandistilled @japanese_spirit @jss_shochu (Japan Sake & Shochu Makers Association) @kaiyowhisky @impex_bev Websites https:/ japandistilled.com/ https:/ kanpai.us/ https:/ www.japan-guide.com/e/e2037.html https:/nonjatta.blogspot.com/ Chris Bunting’s archived Japanese Spirits blog
Glossary excerpted from Pellegrini, Christopher. The Shochu Handbook: An Introduction to Japan’s Indigenous Distilled Drink. Telemachus Press, 2014.
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