LINI 910 | Food & Wine

T R A V E L I N G I N L A M B R U S C O C O U N T R Y

In Emilia-Romagna. Lambfusco producers are scattered throughout the areas around Modena and Reggio Emilia The best are family- owned, most of them small (but not all-the Modena-based Chiarli family, lor instance, makes very good artisanal Lambrusco under its Cleto Chiarli brand but also vast amounts of inenpensive bottles for Europeansupermarkets).Emilia-RomagnaisalsowheresomeofItaly's best food oan be found, from world-famous destinations like chef Massimo Bottura's Osteria Francescana to casual trattorias serving absurdly good tortellini in brodoor tagliatelle alia bolognese Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese was born here: so was PellegrinoArtusi, known as the father of Italian gastronomy (casartusi.it) And don't forget tradizionale balsamic vinegar, the worth its-weight-in-gold, hyper-concentrated elimr that many wineries here also produce.

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W H E R E T O S T A Y

this 35-seat destination. Chef Tommaso Maio concentrates on hyper-local ingredients for dishes like tiny, curly gramigna a! torchio pasta with amoun¬ tain of sausage ragii and fresh herbs. Irattonadiviaserra.it W I N E R I E S T O V I S I T As always with European winer¬ ies, it's best to make arrange¬ ments for avisit in advance. U N I 9 1 0 Located near the small town of Correggio, Lini's winery is open for visits, but get in touch ahead of time for an appoint¬ ment. "We re always happy to open any or all of our wines and to serve visitors our vinegars.' Alicia Lini says lini9J0.tl VENTURINI BALDINI This grand estate was built m the 1500s in the hills southwest of Reggio Emilia. Tours are avail¬ able Monday through Saturday, and tastings typically include the Baldini wines as well as the estate's vinegars and local food products, venturimba/dini.fr CLETO CHIARLI Lambruscos at this top pro¬ ducer near Modena are always accompanied by aplate of local salumi and gnssini. The winery's Vecchia Modena is one of the best Lambruscos avail¬ able in the U.S., but also see if you can taste some of the less widely available cuv^es, tike the deep pink, fresh berry-tart Lambrusco del Fondatore. c h ( a r l u t PA LT R I N I E R I This tiny winery in the town of Sorbara was founded by Achiile Pallrinieri in 1926. Today it's run by hisgrandson Alberto, who makes thnllingly precise, complex Lambruscos His pale red. spicy Sant'Agata battling is aquality benchmark. cant1n3paitrin1en.it

C A S A M A R I A L U I G I A Chef Massimo Bottura's beauti¬ fully converted 18th-century country house near Modena offers 12 distinctive guest rooms, each furnished with vintage and contemporary art. The nightly tasting menu offers guests a chance to try the dishes that made his Osteria Francescana one of the worfd’s greatest restaurants—a nice thing, as areservation there is nigh-on impossible to score. (Rooms from $533, casamaria /wgia.comj ALBERGO DEI MEOAGLIONI located in an old palace In the center of Correggio, this rambling hotel makes fora comfortable, old-fashioned base for visiting wineries mthe area. (Rooms from $1J7, albergo deimedag/ioni.corn) FRANCESCANA AT MARIA L U I G I A Travelers who don't feel like stay¬ ing the night at Casa Maria Luigia can still book reservations for dinner here and sample many of chef Massimo Bottura's most famously conceptual (and deli¬ cious) dishes, like Five Ages of Parmigiano-Reggiano and Oops! IDropped the Lemon Tart, casa manaluigia.com OSTERIA DEL FILOSSO This restaurant in Correggios the perfect place to stop after (or before) avisit to the Lini winery. Nothing fancy here, just perfectly prepared classics like cappelletti in capon broth and lasagna with atraditional Emilian ragu in a small, charming dining room. The substantial wine list only adds to the pleasure, oslenadelfilosso.il TRATTORIA 01 VIA SERRA Head farther afield to Bologna lor the daily-changing menu at W H E R E T O E A T

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